A bad CPS will prevent both fuel and spark - when the ECU doesn't get a valid signal from the CPS indicating that the engine is rotating, then it will shut off both fuel and spark. It sounds like you have solved the fuel delivery problem, but maybe not spark. If the engine rotates and does not fire, then it's a problem with either fuel deliver or spark. Disconnecting the dead battery's negative lead, taking it out of circuit may help. Even if you try jumping it off or charging it, the battery could have dead cell causing it to act like a giant resistor and "suck" all the jump-battery's extra power away. So does your engine rotate when you turn the key? If not, then I would look to the vehicle battery. Firing is when fuel is combusted by spark and the engine then continues to run after the start motor stops. Rotation is when the starter motor runs and the engine is rotating. I'm a bit confused by the terminology "It cranks like it wants too but doesn't actually turn over" and "There is no ticking or anything when we try to start." Let's use the terms "rotate" and "fire". There is no ticking or anything when we try to start. Tried jumping the battery even though it said it's giving full power. Rear SAM came out of same model so I didn't think it needed reset or whatever it's called. All the wires in the fuel system were checked and are powering what they need too (fuel sending unit etc) It had spark before replacing the rear SAM. We don't seem to be getting spark now but our tester isn't the most reliable. The fuel pump kicks on now, great fuel pressure at the rail. We replaced the Crankshaft position sensor, still didn't start.Ĭouldn't hear fuel pump so yanked that bad boy out and tested it, it worked.įound that the rear SAM was fried. It cranks like it wants too but doesn't actually turn over. I superviseĬar drove great, came home parked it went back out and it wouldn't start. Also, my boyfriend is the one working on the car since I'm 9 months pregnant. maybe a bad T-stat from the get go.I'm new to this forum so I hope I posted in the right area. I just need someone to check their cap and let me know if there is a gasket where the cap contacts the overflow jug. I am starting to think (as I brought up in #2 ) the overflow cap might be the culprit. I am not losing ANY coolant so I do not think I would benefit from a pressure test.Ĥ) No blocked supply and return, they are passing coolant. A pressure test (in my mind) is used to determine where a leak is. I can open the overflow cap at operating temperature with no problem of coolant blowing out and the coolant in the overflow is only lukewarm. Maybe someone with a C230 could look at their cap and let me know?ģ) As I stated in the post. But upon inspection, I noticed there is no rubber gasket in the cap where it makes contact with the overflow jug. Is there supposed to be a rubber gasket in the cap? I have tightened the cap all the way until it gives that last little "click". One other side note, it appears the cooling fan continuously runs rather than cycling on / off.ġ) As far as I can tell, yes I bled the air from the system as you suggested.Ģ) The overflow cap is brand new but I do have a question about this cap. There is NO PRESSURE whatsoever on the expansion tank (I can remove the cap with no pressure evident even when the temperature gauge is showing operating temperature) Additionally, the coolant in the reservoir is only lukewarm after the temp gauge is showing 90cĪdditionally I noticed there is little pressure on the upper radiator hose if any. However, the coolant does not seem to be circulating. It is vibrating to touch so I am assuming it is circulating.ĥ)Did the reset test on the damper motors (recirc and defrost) shows goodĦ)Checked all fuses relating to cooling and heating system As soon as the car comes to a stop the heater blows ICE cold.ġ)Complete change of antifreeze / water (Zerex G5)Ĥ)Semi quasi checked the recirc pump. Actually there is a very small amount of heat (if you can call it that) but only after driving quite some time and only while the car is in motion. My problem is no heat on a 2004 C230 Kompressor. Hopefully someone here might have a word of advice? I have lurked this site as a guest for quite a while always learning from others but I now have an issue I cannot locate an answer to.
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